maintenance

How many of you have check your front wheel bearing for grease on you RV?
Reason I ask: The factory only packs the bearing and install them.(with little amount of grease ).The service stations donot lube the bearings....Only if you ask and for lots of money.
With extended highway driving the bearing will run dry welding their self to the spindle and creating an accident.The last one that I replace for a traveler, I had to use my torches to cut it off.($$$$$$$$)
Some unit have indpendent suspension and other I beam suspension.Some hubs have glass for you to see the oil. P-30 chassis have a cup.

For the "Do-it-yoursel"........Jack your front wheel (one at a time) remove the hub cap
Remove cutter pin unscrew the nut....kick the tire in the side and the bearing will pop out
Donot pull the tire out.
With that one bearing out shoot plenty grease inside the hub.(There is a big cavity inbetween inner and outer bearing)
Install the bearing and tigthen the nut all the way and then backoff a 1/4 turn...
Install the cutter pin.....Fill the cup with more grease and install.
Move to next tire.

If you happen to be at the same camp that I'm...I will check it for you no charge...you supply the grease.

Hmm. Can you do this just to check if there is grease, and is there such a thing as too much? I've got lots of time on my hands and plenty of tools, and heavy duty jacks. We had some issues with the master cylinder leaking and the ABS going out(not fun for the wife-she's the driver). I know it's a different issue, but trust is an issue with the service dept of the 3 places near us where we can get the rig serviced. We even bought an OBD-2 to help keep them honest. Service plan or not, a little preventative maint is better than lost days with the 'house' in a shop.

OurVee

If you pull the cup from the hub, Immediately you will know how much or none. If the cup is emty you need to pack lots of grease in there(In between the bearings inside the hub) Don't fill the outside cup to much or you wont be able to pressed back in. The ABS: if the sensor at the wheels are dirty it will malfunction. Also
make sure all the connection at the ABS pump are tight.
If you are in Fl Gulf coast Tampa Bay area. Go to "Harbertson & Swanston" in US-19 Clearwater and talk to Victor he is the owner and a good friend of mine, telling Juan send you. He will take care of you.All the personel at the service bay are good "Monkey Wrenches"
like me.

thank for the info. We are just up I-4 NE of Orlando. Tampa is a regular trip, so I'll look them up, plug the info into the gps and Kat and I(with the 2 dogs)will most likely head that way for any service. She already bought me a maintenance book-talk about a ready made honey-do list, but some of the stuff is way over my head, so your tip on a good shop is golden. Thanks again.

Dan

mORE MAINTENANCE TIPS.
How many of you have draging brakes problems?
Lots of stop and go and also coming down stiff mountains will give you smoking or draging brakes.

CAUSE: Boiling brake fluid.....The calipers get so hot that it boils the fluids puting pressure to the pads and creating a drag and eventually will lock the tire and you foot pedal go to the floor.

Solution: If you smell burning brakes, At you nearest chance stop and let it cool(about 2-3 hrs).
Change the brake fluid and replace with a High performance brake fluid, Any "Speed Shop " will carry
high temp brake fluid. "Wilwood" makes a 570 degree fluid thats 150 degrees more than reg Dot 3 fluids.
Its easy to change with a vacum pump.
And offcourse the pads will haze after a sevear heat. Replace them with a titanium type. More money but you life it woth it...You can read more about this fluid at <www> and clik on brakes and fluids.

A good parts source. <http> from tanks sensors to window latches and everything in between. Nice and courteus people you can order online and have it ship anywhere you like.
Check it out.