NEED NEW RV PURCHASE HELP

JCSme – Sorry, I did not mean to say that you could not pull an auto transporter with a 32-38 foot MH. I should have said that it may stress the size MH you are looking at, because (and this is strictly opinion) the load capability is engine and chassis-dependent. Our MH (40 ft) has the Cummins ISC 350 HP/1050 ft lbs engine and has a 10,000 towing capacity – loaded and traveling down the road, the coach by itself weighs about 31,000 lbs (we have weighed the coach) – CGVWR for our coach is 41,000 lbs. Most, but certainly not all smaller MH tend to have the ISB, which on older models was 5.9 liters, 250/300 HP/650 ft lbs; the new ISB engine is a bit larger at 6.7 liters and 350 HP/650 ft lbs (original issue) and 350 HP/800 ft lbs on current production engines. Based on the engine/chassis combination, the CGVWR may be lower and must be adhered to.

Five years ago, my DW decided she needed extra space to haul around and to work on her crafts. We looked at a Haulmark 22 foot, enclosed car transporter (TST85X22WT3 – still have the quote, although we did not purchase the trailer); my car was just under 17’ long, so I figured five additional feet for her ‘stuff’ while traveling. According to the quote I have, the hauling capacity for that trailer is 5300 lbs; the curb weight is 3650 lbs. Loaded, we calculated the trailer GVW at about 7900 lbs and within our 10,000 towing capacity. The only issue we could come up with was where to park it when in a CG? In the over seven years we have been traveling, very few CGs are capable or allow trailers to park at the site. Most require that the trailer be parked at a specified location within the CG, at least two we have stayed at required payment for parking the trailer.

JCSme, preparing for the adventure of a lifetime (fulltime RV travel) is an experience in itself; Good luck on what you finally decide on!

John

John,

All this information helps a great deal. I didn't even think about CG capability for a trailer also. Thank God for this site and all the information posted here.

If I understand your post correctly, it would be better to obtain a MH that is lighter (if smaller), with the same size motor, would give me the best towing power because the MH by itself is lighter. I have seen MHs from 32'-40' with the same size motor, and the 40' would give me less towing capability (talking power) because it is overall heavier. Is that right ? If so, it would be better for me to go 32'-36' reducing my MH weight giving me more towing pull (more bang for my buck while driving) without exceeding the towing capacity of 10,000lbs.

I know that traveling will be expensive, but after 21 years active duty, 12 years of sea time, 10 deployments, and raising 5 kids, my wife and I deserve it. We do not own a house or have any bills. My car and truck are both paid off. 4 of 5 kids are grown and moved or moving on. It will be just me and my wife.

Thank you so much for the information.

HERE IS WHAT I USED TO NARROW DOWN MY SEARCH:

www.rvtrader.com/Class-A-Rvs-In-San-Dieg...00%3A2014&zip=92123&

JCSme – I guess in a perfect world, your summation would be true. Unfortunately, except for only a couple of manufacturers (and some that are out of business), when the length is/was shorter – say 34 – 36 ft, the engine was smaller – Cummins ISB, Cat 3126/C-7, which are/were smaller capacity, less HP and torque. My MH is a Newmar product and in 2003 came in both 38 and 40 ft lengths. With the Spartan chassis (what I have) it came with the Cummins ISC, but with the Freightliner chassis it came with the smaller Cat engine. Many Mfrs do the same thing. Country Coach built diesel coaches from 34 to 45 ft. - Up to about 40 ft, I think all had the same engine, but never having owned a CC, I could be wrong. I guess the short answer is – if you purchase a shorter diesel MH, the engine/chassis combination may not be what you are looking for. Prior to my retirement and hitting the road, my wife and I spent almost five years acquainting ourselves with just about every make and model out there, over time we narrowed the search down to a couple different Mfrs and models. Over that same period, we hit every RV show we could, kept brochures (with prices annotated for future reference) until we finally selected what we ultimately purchased. You have a couple years to go, so you are doing exactly what you should be doing – I my humble opinion.

Again, good luck with your search. You are definitely on the right track.

John

Edit: Had a CRS moment - the 'Fleetwood' chassis is actually Freightliner. Sorry for the mixup

Bear in mind that if you purchase new and do not enjoy it as much as you thought you would, being able to sell and get your money out is probably like getting blood out of a turnip. We bought new and bought a leaky problem, albeit a brand new problem. After four months of letting them try to fix things it developed mold. They washed their hands of us, because it was our problem now and not theirs. This is sad but true, and we were experienced rv'ers, having purchased used before.

Suzq,

NEW was never in the plan because of those reasons. That is why I am taking my time on this purchase, waiting for that right one at the right time. I have a group of friends who showed me the ropes and said "GO USED" and "GO DIESEL". Sorry you had those issues you had, I know that was frustrating. I can only imagine how you felt.